Welcome to the test copy of the new GMN. This is purely for testing. Nothing posted here will be saved, so please don't post anything important here. The data is from a copy of GMN from right around Thanksgiving 2022, so there are some gaps but there is enough here to work with. Please let us know what works and what don't so we can try and debug this before the final move.
Thanks!
I've just been running a 9012 bulb on my low beams with an upgraded headlight harness in my '97. More lumen output on that style bulb at the same wattage, just a more efficient design, just have to trim the upper tab to match a 9006 profile. Clean and properly aimed headlight assemblies help. Can't say much about the LED in headlight business, only ever stuck them in my taillights.
My Cars:
-1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
-1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
-1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
-1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner
I used the SeaLight 14000 lumens set. It's not on Amazon any more, but I'm more than satisfied with that kit. The brights are about 2x halgens and the lows are about 1.5x halogen lows (using xtravision as a basis).
Its a bit premature, but the Sealight that Sly used I will give a preliminary thumbs up to.
Based on my early dawn driving into work the beam is much better than the previous LED I had (I'm still running with one Seallight (9007 variety in the 2008) and one whatever its name is as I've been intending to take a night drive to compare the two but always end up in my truck for some reason) there is also a distinct difference between high and low beam which was also lacking in the previous led--which is very apparent with the two different leds in there. One just brightens up a bit, the other has a distinct high beam that is better spread out.
If you have access to access to Sylvania XtraVision bulbs, that can help. They're a little brighter. If the bulbs are original, they may just be worn out and crap.
If you have access to access to Sylvania XtraVision bulbs, that can help. They're a little brighter. If the bulbs are original, they may just be worn out and crap.
I just put in Philiips NightGuide Platinums a week ago or so, supposedly the best 9004 halogens there are. Still crap visibility.
Thought about buying new headlight housings, they're 90€ a pair on RA. But, looking at the current ones, they aren't too hazed or faded. I would probably be spending a bunch of $$$ for little to very little improvement.
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"
I have been using Beamtech fanless. So far no failures on two vehicles. They, Beamtech, have a new generation of fanless now. My friend bought two sets the other day so will see how the new design units workout.
03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice 02 SL500 Silver Arrow 08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,
check the voltage supply to the lamps. Any drop in the harness makes a big difference in light output.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
check the voltage supply to the lamps. Any drop in the harness makes a big difference in light output.
+1 If you haven't done a relay mod for the headlights, the power is going fully through the dash switch and is probably dropping a few volts easy before getting to the headlights. This was the case all the way up to 94 IIRC. I know my 93 was still putting all the power through the switch until I did the relay mod.
All 3 of mine do it that way, but oddly enough the drop on the Mark VII is pretty small, under half a volt. Both the Towncar and the Continental were losing a little more than 2 volts if I measured battery voltage vs across the headlight voltage. Relay harnesses on both made a huge difference.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Yeah... same on the 88 MGM I had. The 93 didn't improve much, but taking the load off the switch for some peace of mind is a good thing. Don't like fires in the dash.
The headlights are getting a nice and solid 14V +-0,2 when running. Very little voltage drop from the battery. I did check, no relay on the Chevy either. Sly probably didn't catch the fact that I was talking about the Caprice.
Relayed headlights are due for the MGM at some point though, but it's not too big of an issue since it's mostly a summer cruiser.
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"
Comment