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    Cooling problems

    I've replaced the entire cooling system on my 85 but the car's still getting hot, got a single core rad out of a 91, aluminum duralast water pump that came with the car, thermostat, all new hoses, fresh coolant, and I flushed as much rust out as I could, what am I missing?

    The fan clutch is working fine, but it's getting hot enough that the red "engine" light is coming on. Past 2 times it's gotten hot enough that the hoses are stiff, but hasn't blown any coolant out

    #2
    Is the engine warning light temperature or pressure activated?

    Comment


      #3
      Get a proper temperature gauge on the vehicle. It'll tell much more of a story than the warning light if its operation is suspect. The switch engages based on temperature, and I think it's north of 240 degrees. Usually the hoses will be pretty firm at operating temperature with pressure built up.

      My Cars:
      -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
      -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
      -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
      -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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        #4
        https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ZiEdapwtwHQmizt9

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          #5
          how have you tested the fan clutch?

          hose tells me either its got a lot of air in it, or its not building pressure. No pressure is either a leak or a bad cap, or its not even warmed up. The idiot light is not to be relied on, you need at least an IR thermometer to shoot the thermostat housing, or better a real gauge.
          Last edited by gadget73; 08-19-2022, 08:42 PM.

          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #6
            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            how have you tested the fan clutch?


            Well the one that was on it before would freespin after you shut the engine off and you couldn't feel it blowing, the one that's on here now you can feel it blowing good at idle

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              #7
              Sure no large pockets of air in the system?
              What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
              What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by friskyfrankie View Post
                Sure no large pockets of air in the system?


                I'm sure I got the air worked out. When I did the flush I pet it run for a good couple hours, and I've been driving it 15 miles to work and back for 2 weeks and haven't had to add coolant except for the one time it started boiling out cuz there was a leak

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  how have you tested the fan clutch?

                  hose tells me either its got a lot of air in it, or its not building pressure. No pressure is either a leak or a bad cap, or its not even warmed up. The idiot light is not to be relied on, you need at least an IR thermometer to shoot the thermostat housing, or better a real gauge.


                  I took the video after driving 15 miles to town and back on a 65mph highway with hills, and I FINALLY have all the leaks squared away

                  So the hoses need to basically be hard enough you can't really squeeze them then?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yes. That's when you know it's under pressure and at full operating temperature. Should be about 12-15 PSI.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by sly View Post
                      Yes. That's when you know it's under pressure and at full operating temperature. Should be about 12-15 PSI.
                      At the moment I have 2 16lb caps I've tried

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                        #12
                        I have seen aftermarket radiators where the neck is made wrong and the lower cap seal doesn't actually seal on anything. Causes it to build no pressure, it just dumps coolant into the overflow bottle. Can usually tell this by squeezing the hose when its cold. if the level in the overflow bottle goes up as you squish the hose, its not sealing.

                        related to the overflow bottle, if that hose isn't in good shape or its leaking at the connection on the radiator it will burp coolant out but suck air back in, producing an air pocket.

                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          I have seen aftermarket radiators where the neck is made wrong and the lower cap seal doesn't actually seal on anything. Causes it to build no pressure, it just dumps coolant into the overflow bottle. Can usually tell this by squeezing the hose when its cold. if the level in the overflow bottle goes up as you squish the hose, its not sealing.

                          related to the overflow bottle, if that hose isn't in good shape or its leaking at the connection on the radiator it will burp coolant out but suck air back in, producing an air pocket.
                          This is a stock radiator that I pulled out of a 91, I'm gonna see if I can find the original cap that went to the radiator and see if that does anything

                          Comment


                            #14
                            How about getting an OEM cap made for a 91? That way, you know the cap "shouldn't" be a potential problem. By the way, do you know the radiator is clean in and out?
                            What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                            What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Just echoing the suggestions that you employ a thermometer.
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