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What are the signs of a bad fuel pressure regulator?

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    What are the signs of a bad fuel pressure regulator?

    Problems came back.
    I drove a total of 310 miles since the last fix a month ago. While driving home, after about 4 miles I was at a stop light. In about a minute it felt like a surge down like it wanted to stop. I put it in neutral and revved up a little. It drove away fine.
    At another light, in about a mile I just put it in neutral.
    I made it home and sat with it running in drive for 10 minutes, then it started surging down again eventually cutting itself off.
    It started up again and was ok in park.
    In drive it would surge down again.

    I just went out 8 hours later and it was really rough starting. It was sputtering upon cranking and eventually started. I revved it up in park and it cleared itself out. I cut it off and tried again, it was the same thing.
    I hear the fuel pump humming loud, so I assume it's ok.
    Tomorrow I will swap the old IAC back on and check the adjustment of TPS and will check the fuel pressure.
    On Friday I have a Cardone rebuilt distributor coming thru Amazon. It comes with a new PIP sensor and TFI module.
    What should the fuel pressure reading be?
    Thank you.
    90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
    90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
    91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
    70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original

    #2
    A distributer, so I presume this is a box with SEFI?

    I had an '89 TC with a bad fuel pressure regulator- it just usually took a really long time to start, like double to three times what it should take. Never had any drivability problems with that car though. Matter of fact, I think it was smoother than my '88. Verify vacuum leaks and stuff too- make sure the line going to the MAP sensor is OK.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

    Comment


      #3
      IIRC 30lbs. An easy check if you have a gauge.
      03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
      08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,

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        #4
        Should be like 30-32psi running at idle (full vacuum) and around 40psi with the vacuum line removed.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment


          #5
          Can't remember if you ever tried a new IAC? Personally, never had any luck just cleaning. My take is if I'm removing it anyway, might as well install a new one and clean the ports along with a new gasket.
          What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
          What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

          Comment


            #6
            I've only had one FPR fail and it was total failure. Pulled the vacuum hose off and fuel came out of the regulator. Barely ran from overloading with fuel, wouldn't idle and hard to start.
            1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
            1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

            GMN Box Panther History
            Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
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            Comment


              #7
              I had an adjustable fail in a way that the pressure was all over the place. It ran lean, I'd bump it up to normal, then it would run fat. Lean pings badly and it makes poor power. Also get random hitching and bucking. Fat mostly just wastes a lot of fuel. It ran more or less normal.

              Ignition is more cranky than fuel with most engines for regular driving unless its just way off the rails.

              would be awful helpful to have exactly what you are working on in your sig. I have advanced CRS and just do not retain such details.

              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                It's a 1990 Colony Park with GT 40 heads, 65 MM throttle body, GT 40 intake and a Pro Flow 75 MM MAF.
                The fuel pressure checked out good.
                Starting fluid didn't help it either.
                I'm going to try a new TFI module first. If that don't fix it, I have available, a new Cardone remanfactured distributor with a new cap, rotor, new PIP and new TFI module.
                Can someone that's done it before, guide me thru swapping distributors?
                I know it seems simple, but I tried doing one decade's ago and it turned into a pain in the ass.
                BTW the spark test light last month and this time is an orange spark.
                Thank you again.
                90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
                90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
                91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
                70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original

                Comment


                  #9
                  Swap distributor:

                  Turn car off.

                  Pop cap off of dizzy and take note where rotor is pointing.

                  Make note where TFI is pointing in relation to its surroundings.

                  remove dizzy bolt from lower intake.

                  wiggle dizzy and pull up...***rotor will spin some** make note where that is as well.

                  install rotor on new dizzy and place in engine. rotor should start where you last seen it positioned before dizzy popped off the engine.

                  rotor should end where you seen it before you started this process.

                  TFI should also be in same spot before you started this process.

                  place cap back on, or carefully swap wires one by one to new cap.

                  loosely secure dizzy hold down and set timing. tighten dizzy hold down bolt.
                  ~David~

                  My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                  My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                  Originally posted by ootdega
                  My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
                  Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                  But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I use sharpies to note where the rotor is before and after lifting, then just match the other one up. Fine-tune with the timing light.

                    also make sure cap tower 1 goes to cylinder 1. If someone hopped the wires around to fix an incorrectly dropped distributor it will do goofy things. Should be the only one marked.

                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thank you Vic and Gadget.
                      Has anyone had problems with the oil pump shaft coming out with the distributor?
                      Will the oil pump shaft slide back into the distributor easily?
                      90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
                      90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
                      91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
                      70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Never had that problem. Plus 1 on the sharpie. Also when you install the distributor make sure it is all the way down. If not remove and reinstall one tooth either way.

                        One thing that you might want to do before removal of distributor is make sure the rotor is pointing to #1. This will set the engine to approx TDC. Just in case you decide to have a few shots before doing the job and ... well you know.
                        Also clean and mark the balancer before you start the job so you can see it line up the 0 mark when matching the rotor to #1.
                        03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                        08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The pump shaft is supposed to have a clip on it to prevent it from coming out with the distributor. Its not impossible that the clip is missing or not properly positioned and it jammed but I wouldn't worry too terribly much about it. If it falls, it can be fished out but you're jacking the motor up and dropping the oil pan to do it.

                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thank you all again.
                            90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
                            90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
                            91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
                            70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The new TFI module was not the answer. I checked the volts on the TPS. 1.47 Volts closed and 4.70 volts at WOT.
                              I went ahead and put the new distributor in. It had a new PIP sensor and a new TFI module. That fixed it. The idle is normal and the throttle pedal seems more responsive.
                              A bad PIP sensor I believe was the issue.
                              90 Colony Park LS with GT 40 heads and intake. HO cam, 65 MM TB, 67 MM EGR spacer. Has a 75 MM Pro Flow mass air sensor. Borla XS mufflers. 3L55. Shift kit, 2000 stall Tq convertor...Bilstein shocks, front and rear sway bars.
                              90 Colony Park LS 64,000 miles all original. 3L55 tow package....front and rear sway bars.
                              91 Grand Marquis GS....HO motor..Bilstein shocks poly bushings and police swaybars. This one handles the best.
                              70 Torino Squire with M code 351 Cleveland 3.00 has Magnaflow mufflers. Hidden headlights and power windows. All original

                              Comment

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