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Codes retrieved 90 Colony Park.

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  • stinkydogfilms
    replied
    Thank you Gadget.
    It came with a Pro Flow MAF calibrated for 19 lbs which it does have. I put 20,000 miles on it, then last year in May I switched to a PRO M MAF and have put 5,000 miles on it. No tuning was needed. I only let the computer reset. I swapped in the new Granetelli MAF last week after getting the surge.
    I believe the computer is out of a 90 Mustang.
    Thank you for always coming in to help.

    Leave a comment:


  • gadget73
    replied
    32 is an EGR code, position sensor below minimum voltage. usually thats a bad position sensor but if the valve itself has a hole worn in the metal plate that the sensor rides on it will do this too.

    honestly I'd be tempted to put the other valve back on since it wasn't giving you any codes related to the EGR system.

    43 and 91 are both left side lean codes, so you may have a vacuum leak or an injector problem. What size injectors are you using anyway? If they are 19#, there really isn't a good reason to not be using whatever OEM MAF sensor matches the ECM in that car. If they aren't 19#, there really isn't any reason to not be using some OEM Ford MAF and a proper tune to make it all play nice. I'm really not a big fan of the "calibrated" sensors.


    your idle is too high. With the IAC unplugged it should be maybe 550, and it should run at 675 with the IAC plugged in. If its above that, you probably have a vacuum leak.

    Leave a comment:


  • stinkydogfilms
    replied
    Slowly making a little progress.
    The big surge is gone. It was the vacum hose at the top of the firewall vacum tree. It was mushy where it connects under the intake.and letting enough air in to cause the big surge. The mushy end was connected to the intake on the elbow that usually has the PCV hose on it.
    The PCV hose actually connects to a port under the middle of the intake.
    They have been reversed like this since I bought the car 25,000 miles ago.
    Replacing both hoses helped with the surge although it still has one.

    I was able to pull codes again. The DTC cable doesn't always connect.
    The engine light isn't coming on at all.
    The code with KOER are 32 43 and 91. All O2 related.
    I'm gonna put new O2 sensors in and see if that stops the intermittent surging.
    The idle seems to want to be 850 in drive. When it does surge the drop is like 50 and sometime 100 rpms. Anything less than 850 it will surge more often with a larger range.like down to zero. The surge is always down, not above 850.
    I'm starting to feel like I'm walking down the UP Escalator.
    I'm getting there.
    Thank you for letting me vent.
    Its affordable therapy and plus educational for me with the replies.
    Thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    Yeah. I think you need to get the idle down where it's supposed to be before you can really diagnose the surging properly.

    Leave a comment:


  • stinkydogfilms
    replied
    Thank you again Sly.
    I remember having the surge issue in another Grand Marquis.
    If I remember correctly, it was bad O2 sensors and the computer kept searching.
    I'm going try to reset the idle again.
    Thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    to set idle... and you have it set too high... unplug the SPOUT jumper AND the IAC. with timing set to 10 BTDC, set idle to 675 +/- 50 (625-725). Plug IAC and SPOUT back in. May need to blip the throttle each time you adjust the screw to make sure it seats right.

    Leave a comment:


  • stinkydogfilms
    replied
    Thank you Sly.
    Today I swapped out both Thermactors at the back of the engine. Both of the old ones had the top ports plugged but nothing on the bottom ports. Here is no smog pump. It's been removedI put Seafom thru the throttle body and put a can in the gas tank.
    I also disconnected the IAC.
    The car started idling better. I let it idle in drive for 30 minutes then proceeded to drive 25 miles around the neighborhood, it took 2 hours. It idled in drive at 750 for 20 minutes while talking to a neighbor.. The car ran fine. During the two hours when I stopped at Stop signs the idle speed was 750 with no surging at all. I came home let it idle in drive another 10 minutes. I started it up a couple of times.
    I came out 2 hours later and started it up. The surge had came back.
    I adjusted the idle speed again. I noticed that I never plugged the IAC back in. I plugged it back in and played with the idle screw for about 20 minutes.
    It seems the surge was still there, but not as often with the RPMS set at 900-1000 in Drive. Around 1100-1200 in Park.
    Very rarely does it surge in Park, but it sometimes does.
    I disconnected the electric connectors on the two Thermactor solenoids and plugged both vacum ports on each.
    I have disconnected the negative cable on the battery and have called it a night. Tomorrow the battle between the Colony Park vs Mike Marston starts over again.
    Thank you for your help.

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
    12 doesn't neccesarily mean what you think it does. It means it can't idle the engine up enough during the self-test, not so much that the idle is high.

    44 and 94 are both thermactor. If your air pump is missing, thats why. if its not missing, chances are high that the ports in the back of the head are stuffed with carbon. What this actually is looking for is the system to read lean when it pumps air in. If the thermactor isn't there or its clogged, obviously it can't pump air in so you get no lead reading. if the O2 sensors are shot or the engine is running extremely rich, it also won't read correctly.


    the KOEO codes can be a mix of stored and active depending exactly what order things spit out in.

    18 is usually a wiring harness fault or possibly a TFI problem if the SPOUT is installed. Nothing magic about those, its just a piece of wire between those two pins. Nothing to actually go bad. If the engine was run at some point with the connector out, it may have set the code.
    22 - If the MAP sensor is connected to a vacuum line, unhook it. MAF cars use a baro sensor, which is just a MAP with no vacuum line connected to it. If the sensor is bad or not present, that would also do it.
    23 - stick a voltmeter from green to black in the TPS connector with it plugged in. You want to see about 0.8 - 1.2 volts, normally right near 1.0 is where they live. If its outside of that range, either the TPS is bad, the throttle stop screw is jacked open, or maybe the mounting holes on the TPS are wallowed out and its just sitting wrong.
    95 - the wire wasn't hooked up to the fuel pump side of the relay when the mass air conversion was done. This is not a problem at all, but if you want it to go away you need a wire from ECM pin 19 to the fuel pump side of the pump relay.
    Originally posted by stinkydogfilms View Post
    I replaced the IAC with a new Motorcraft one, set the TPS to .87 at idle and 4.66 at WOT. I put a new EGR valve and sensor on. The old valve was heavily carboned up. It had so much carbon it looks like it could be the original EGR valve.
    I set the idle speed, but it didn't help with the surging.
    I'm about o switch out the Thermactor solenoids from the other Colon Park and see if that helps.
    Can I spray Seafom in the new EGR valve vacum? What's the best place to spray Seafoam to clean up the head?
    I also replaced the Mass Air tube and sensor with a new one I had laying around. Its an Andy Granatelli brand.
    Some codes were eliminated.
    The current codes are
    18....22....95.
    What components are in the fuel pump secondary circuit?

    Thank you again
    See gadget's earlier post. about the codes.

    If you are using non-stock MAF, you will need a tune to get the fuel/air curve correct. Remove the vacuum line from the MAP sensor if it's still connected as the MAF conversion uses that as a barometer. I would disconnect the electrical from the thermactor stuff and see if things improve.
    Last edited by sly; 02-28-2022, 06:16 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • stinkydogfilms
    replied
    I replaced the IAC with a new Motorcraft one, set the TPS to .87 at idle and 4.66 at WOT. I put a new EGR valve and sensor on. The old valve was heavily carboned up. It had so much carbon it looks like it could be the original EGR valve.
    I set the idle speed, but it didn't help with the surging.
    I'm about o switch out the Thermactor solenoids from the other Colon Park and see if that helps.
    Can I spray Seafom in the new EGR valve vacum? What's the best place to spray Seafoam to clean up the head?
    I also replaced the Mass Air tube and sensor with a new one I had laying around. Its an Andy Granatelli brand.
    Some codes were eliminated.
    The current codes are
    18....22....95.
    What components are in the fuel pump secondary circuit?

    Thank you again

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    Yeah... Got that from someone on an F150 forum when I had that crap-tastic 93 F150. Damn that truck needed a lot of crap. Sold it on before I finished fixing everything. Basically the only thing different between that procedure and the one for a panther is there's no real need for a feeler gauge. Just blip the throttle after every adjustment to check it. And of course 10 degress BTDC instead of 2.

    Leave a comment:


  • gadget73
    replied
    looks like thats from the engine/emissions diag manual. I have one for a 91.

    there is also the base idle reset procedure which is yet another way of getting to the same point

    https://www.moddedmustangs.com/threa...own.%20More%20


    basically you want it to idle less than where the ECM wants it to be so there is some amount of control. Too high or too low and the IAC can't control the idle reasonably.

    Leave a comment:


  • stinkydogfilms
    replied
    Thank you Sly. This helps.
    What manual or website is it from?

    Leave a comment:


  • sly
    replied
    Idle set procedure without feeler gauge... Use the F150 5.0L setup for automatics and set 10 degrees BTDC but ignore feeler gauge settings.

    Leave a comment:


  • stinkydogfilms
    replied
    I found it in my Haynes manual.
    As follows.
    Start engine...run to operating temperature
    88 models...raise engine speed to 1800....hold the pedal down for 30 seconds...
    Put transmission in drive and check the idle speed...
    Set the idle speed to 550 and 600 by turning the idle screw clockwise and then back the screw OUT a 1/2 turn.

    89-92... put in Park...with the engine OFF, back OUT the screw so it does not touch the throttle lever pad.
    Insert a 0.010 inch feeler gauge between the throttle plate stop screw and the throttle lever pad.
    Tighten the screw until it touches the feeler gauge.
    Remove the feeler gauge and turn the screw IN an additional 1-1/2 turns.
    Start the engine and allow to stabilize for two minutes, then depress the accelerator quickly and allow the engine rpm to settle back down to idle.
    The PCM and BPA-ISC valve should adjust the idle from this point.
    If idle quality suffers (high or low) run a complete diagnosis of the fuel injection. and emission control system. Also check the throttle valve TV cable adjustment.

    Leave a comment:


  • DerekTheGreat
    replied
    If I remember right, it should turn it such that the idle is about 450 RPM with the IAC unplugged. The engine will not be very happy at all while you're doing this and will most likely stall. Do the best you can.

    Leave a comment:

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