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    #1

    HO TB swap w/ bored stock spacer



    H.O linkage on the left, lopo on the right. Have to grind both of them off and then swap the lopo onto the HO one, then tack it back in place.



    Difference in the throttle bodys



    Lopo linkage on HO throttle body



    Lopo EGR spacer on left, HO on the right, before boring out.



    Lopo on the left, HO on the right, after boring out.
    sigpicVic Videos Here http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...676#post243676
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    1975 Chevy C-10 Cardomain http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3371894
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    #2
    Why not just drill 2 new holes? 1 for the TV bushing and another for an aftermarket throttle stud?

    Comment

      #3
      Because it's easier to swap the whole linkage than to attempt to get the correct location for the stud and TV bushing. It's be pretty tought ot get the stuff centered, since you would be drilling into part of another hole...
      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by mrltd View Post
        Because it's easier to swap the whole linkage than to attempt to get the correct location for the stud and TV bushing. It's be pretty tought ot get the stuff centered, since you would be drilling into part of another hole...
        Not really.....

        I just lined my mustang TB lever with the lopo TB lever, marked the locations,drilled the holes and installed a Throttle Ball from the Holley Carbs TB Kit, available from jegs.

        Once the original Throttle Ball is ground off the HO TB, the TV Cable hole is the only hole that will remain in the HO TB lever. The hole for the new throttle ball is drilled to the left outer edge of the old Mustang TV cable hole, and does not even come close to connecting with the old TV cable hole. The new TV cable hole is drilled slightly to the right of were the old throttle stud was, and since the throttle stud was ground off even with the surface there was no hole left behind from it, to interfere.

        I just took my time with it, and it came out right the first time. Didn't even have to adjust my TV Cable.

        Comment

          #5
          Maybe its the air tools. Makes swapping the levers a simple matter. Probably sucks doing it by hand with a file.

          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment

            #6
            Just something to mention here, the 1986 model uses a specific throttle lever to work with its one-year only TV cable. It uses a peg that the TV cable hooks to, not a hole with a bushing like other years. Drilling holes and using carb throttle linkage parts is not an option for those vehicles, the lever must be swapped over.

            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment

              #7
              yes i also plead the 86

              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

              Comment

                #8
                Took this pic of my Modified HO Throttle Body, while I had the Upper Intake off today. It has over 15K DD miles on it since I did the Mod to the TB, and it is holding up perfectly.

                I also drilled the hole for the TV Cable brass bushing so that it is a Press Fit in the TB arm, and cannot slip out.

                Maybe this pic will help someone who is thinking of modifying a HO TB to fit the Box Panther setup.
                Last edited by LTDMan83; 09-28-2010, 09:19 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by LTDMan83 View Post
                  Took this pic of my Modified HO Throttle Body, while I had the Upper Intake off today. It has over 15K DD miles on it since I did the Mod to the TB, and it is holding up perfectly.

                  I also drilled the hole for the TV Cable brass bushing so that it is a Press Fit in the TB arm, and cannot slip out.

                  Maybe this pic will help someone who is thinking of modifying a HO TB to fit the Box Panther setup.
                  thats what ive been looking for thanks for the pic!!!! now i hav much better idea how its supposed to go
                  89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Since all the images from the first post are missing, I was hoping someone has some shots of how the modified TB looks.
                    I have both stock and Mustang throttle bodies and just need to swap the pieces over but want to see how far to cut/drill to release the throttle arm or whatever you call it.

                    Do I just have to grind until the parts come apart?
                    1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker


                    2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Just grind it down till it's flush with the lever itself. Then some gentle persuasion and it will come apart.

                      2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                      2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                      2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                      1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Yep. What Zach said. With the grinding it sorta gets stuck together pretty good but some prying gets it free.
                        ~David~

                        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                        Originally posted by ootdega
                        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
                        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I got them free today, now I have to get them back into one functioning piece.
                          1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker


                          2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Has anyone dyno'ed their car after the HO upper and TB swap only? I'm wondering if it's worth the effort of swapping the throttle linkage and boring out the EGR spacer if it'll only mean a barely, if at all noticeable gain in power. I need to do the intake gasket and replace all the vacuum lines so while I have it off, I'd like to know if it's worthwhile to assemble and modify the parts necessary. I'm not building a drag racer but every bit helps, if it's noticeable I'd like to tackle it when it's convenient.

                            Also do you guys have a machine shop bore out the EGR spacer? I don't have the tools or knowledge to even think of attempting that.
                            88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
                            Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes

                            Comment

                              #15
                              On my bone stock 91 GM, I went from a 11.53, to a 11.39 in the 1/8'th with nothing but the HO upper/TB/EGR

                              Pete proved it's about a 10hp upgrade at the wheels on the dyno.

                              It's a huge upgrade in throttle response. IMO, it's one of the first mods that should be done on a lopo
                              2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                              2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                              2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                              1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                              Comment

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